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VIPER 3903T FLASHING PROBLEM

May 12, 2016, 3:38 pm
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Hello.

I'm José from Dominican Republic. I bought a Directed 3903T alarm upgrade from Amazon Market Place, the alarm has the firmware for a Nissan vehicle and I have a 2010 Toyota Camry SE, so I need to flash the device.

I tried to do it by myself, for that purpose I bought a XKLOADER2 and did all the process that are shown in xpresskit.com. When I connected the device into the web base software (XpressVIP 4.5) it says that the platform is 3903V, and like I say above, the device is 3903T. Well, the firmware installed is 703.sshnis00, I don't know too much about this, but I think that firmware is for a 3903T device.

In the research I did, the firmware for my car is 703.sshtoy00 2.05 or 703.ssvtoy00 2.05.

I want to know if there is a way to obtain those firmware to install it manually into the device. I also download the xpressvip 3.1 (desktop version).

I will appreciate your help. Thank you.
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5806v won't even crank without key.

June 4, 2016, 6:05 pm
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I have a viper 5806v and a 2002 trailblazer. I am using a xpresskit dlpkgm as the bypass module.

Everything seems to work, unlock lock and the alarm. My issue is that the remote start won't crank without the key in the on position. If I have the key in the on position it cranks and starts right up. The security light doesn't display if I don't put the key in.

What I noticed is when I turn the key to on the pink wire energizes and remote start works. If I don't turn the key or leave it out it does not energize. Therefore does not even crank. I hope this all makes sense.

Thanks in advance.
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VIPER 4103 help

June 8, 2016, 9:11 am
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I have a Viper 4103 auto start installed in my 2007 Sequoia for 2yrs now. All of a sudden my battery goes dead with nothing left on or doirs ajar. I've had my battery checked by to auto places and my alternator & they say they are both good. I think somehow my auto start is draining my battery somehow. Anyone know what could be wrong?
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Speaker sorta issue

June 11, 2016, 7:42 pm
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This isn't a car audio question, but it is an audio question. I've been looking all over Ebay for speakers ever since I blew a 12" sub. Turns out, the ones I was using aren't made anymore, and finding 12" subs in 8ohm that's a minimum of 500W is difficult when you're broke. However, I'm constantly finding 600W 4ohm subs that are dual coil. I've forgotten so many things about audio over the years, The lowest my amp runs is 8ohm, if I were to get 4ohm dual voice coil subs, and wire them in parallel, (So that both voice coils are wired at a time) Would that make it so that it's an 8ohm speaker? If I remember correctly, that SHOULD work..
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Parrot CK3100 Issue

June 12, 2016, 10:18 am
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Hi All,

I'm looking for help with installation of the Parrot CK3100 into my rally car, which has a normal 12v battery. Ultimately I want to integrate the Parrot with the Peltor intercom (already installed), so that we can use the Parrot to make calls via a mobile/cell phone utilising the headphones/microphones built into our helmets. I already had a couple of spare CK3100 systems in the workshop.

I thought I'd start by getting the CK3100 blue-box/brain installed and proceed from there. I thought that would be the easy part, but I've already hit a problem which has got me puzzled. Basically, as soon I powered up the brain it's fried one of the components inside. Obviously I don't want to proceed any further until I understand exactly what's happened and what I need to do to prevent it happening again.

I have attached a few pictures to help explain the problem ...



One pic shows the burned/fried component. Another pic shows the same (good/undamaged) component on another CK3100 PBC. Another shows the circuit board and the location of the component (bottom right in the red box) and one pic is a diagram of the pin connections for power supply, etc.

So, with just the power plug connected to the brain I proceeded as follows:


1. Connected cable from pin 1 to 12v supply (battery) via fuse
2. Connected cable from pin 2 to 12v supply (ignition) via fuse
3. Connected cable from pin 3 to ground

As I connected the pin 3 cable to ground there was a small spark between the end of the cable and the ground, followed by a pop from within the blue box. When I opened the blue box I found the fried component.

I then took a second blue box and repeated steps 1-3 above, but instead of connecting the cable from pin 3 to ground I checked pin 3 with a multi-meter and found 12v. This doesn't seem quite right, and I feel sure that if I'd connected the cable from pin 3 on the second blue box to ground it would fry the same component!

With the power plug disconnected from the replacement blue box I have measured the resistance across pins 1-3 (battery 12v supply to ground) and pins 2-3 (ignition 12v supply to ground) as follows:

Pins 1-3 = 7.5 kohms
Pins 2-3 = 1 kohms

My initial questions are:


1. Why am I seeing 12v on pin 3 of the power supply plug ?
2. Are the resistance measurements above correct ?
3. What is the component which has been fried and how/where can I obtain a replacement to repair the original brain ?
4. What can I do to fix the underlying problem ?


Perhaps someone has a blue-box which they can check with a multi-meter to compare the voltage and resistances at pin 3 with mine .... ?



Any help/advice will be much appreciated, thanks.


Cheers,
Nick

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Python 5706P Alarm Issues/Help Appreciated

June 28, 2016, 8:11 am
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Hoping someone can help point me in the correct direction. I just had a Python 5706P installed on Friday by an authorized Viper installer on my 2004 Crown Vic. I understand this is basically the same Alarm as the Viper 5706V. When arming and disarming the vehicle the siren chirps but the lights will not flash. When one of the doors or trunk is breached and the alarm triggers the lights won't flash. When I remote start my car the lights won't flash or come on. I thought they were supposed to? If I happen to be using my One Way Remote that will be the only way I can tell the car is running is by seeing the lights on the car lit correct? I know my 2-Way remote will show it is running.

Additionally the active temp is not reading correctly at all. This morning I had the air on set on 70 inside the car the outside temp was 83 and my Active Temp inside was reading 89. It was way cooler than 89 in the vehicle. My factory A/C was cycling on and off keeping the temperature at 70 in the car. The AC was on for the whole hour trip to work. I understand the temp may not be 100% accurate but I would think it should be within 10 degrees appropriately.

When the hood is opened as well no alarm triggers. The installer did not put the hood switch on my car. I don't really care because if working on the vehicle I can just unplug the battery so it will not accidentally start. But does not that hood safety switch also alert if the hood is breached or is it just for safety issues so the car will not start while being worked on? If so where is the trigger install for the hood being opened to alert me?

The question I have is this an install issue or a programming issue that I am overlooking? I am going to take it by the installer tonight and just want to make sure I am asking the appropriate questions and that they don't give me the run around. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!
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Viper 7652v Remote Unresponsive

June 30, 2016, 7:29 am
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My 7652v 1 way remote has been acting very strangely. I thought it was just the battery so I changed it but now it still doesn't work. The two way remote works fine. When I hit lock or unlock buttons on the 1-way it's plays a little song with 9 noises sequenced quickly and the light flashes on it but the locks do not function. Then it will stop indicating anything when buttons are pressed almost like the battery is completely dead. So when I change the battery out I get the same thing all over again. Is this thing toast? Any ideas?

Thanks
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Viper 4806V Remote Starter issue

July 10, 2016, 6:45 pm
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I had a Viper 4806V installed on my 2016 Honda Accord. The remote start will start the car for about 45 seconds then shut off. It was then attempt to start 3 times before shutting off completely. Any idea what could be the issue, and is the fix something the customer can do at home? Thank you.

Below is the YouTube video of my latest attempt.
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Car Radio / Flashing Code Only..??

July 17, 2016, 11:29 am
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:whistling: My Son's 2002 Honda Civic , the Battery had gone Dead.. Hence in the process of Boosting his Car back to life.. Factory Installed Radio has gone on the Fritz, only flashing a Code across the screen.. Our Query is to Reboot / ReSet the Radio so he can receive a signal again ?? Or is this a Dealer Only job ??:cry:
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Viper Codes

July 24, 2016, 10:16 pm
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Hi,

Question I'll like to know; is it possible to change the remote responders pairing codes of car alarm (Viper 5706v2). I think there maybe an unauthorized remote responder copy.:angry:
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Alpine / Metra Dash kit power problem

July 28, 2016, 12:02 pm
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I had a Metra Dash Kit professionally installed in a Pontiac G6 about 6 years ago and an alpine IDs-x001 and it worked flawlessly until recently. I had no power and thought I blew the fuse, but it was not. I plugged the fuse back in and all of a sudden I had power again. It repeats this over and over. It never blows the radio fuse. I just have. To pull it and pop it back in. The power goes away after the vehicle has neen shut off for several minutes. I checked the wiring harness and the are no loose writes or obvious shorts. Any ideas?
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Viper 460xv siren output wire

August 22, 2016, 12:12 pm
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Hi I have an old viper 460xv alarm fitted to my car and I want to add the 516u voice module that I have had for a while,I have the wiring diagrams for both,the part that's confusing me is the 516u instructions say to connect the brown wire(positive) on the 516u to the brown wire(siren positive) on the viper for the chirp detection to work.The problem I have is the brown wire on the viper 460 is described as horn output negative and I am unsure where to connect the brown wire instead,any help would be appreciated
Thanks Chris
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My Remote Start is not working

August 26, 2016, 12:11 am
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Hello,
My remote start is not working in my truck. At first, I thought it was do to the fact that I had dropped my remote in some water. I purchased a new remote transmitter, the same one that originally came with my alarm/remote starter. The alarm/remote starter is a Viper Model: 771XV & the remote is 488V/P/X.
All I really want to know is what things I should look for. It worked right up until I dropped the remote. I programmed the remote and it works fine except it won't remotely start my damn truck! Can you please help me out here and tell me some things to look for or maybe even possibly I programmed the remote without adding the remote start command. I just don't know, but hopefully one of you could point me in the right direction.
I don't know if it matters or not but, I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado and it was installed right after I bought the truck at Best Buy ... & that's a mess of a story in itself. Thank you.
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viper 5900 alarm will not unlock/lock doors

September 6, 2016, 2:24 pm
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hi, so i tried resetting my viper using the reset button. i made my alarm to relearn but doors still wont unlock. So i tried buying a door lock actuator for driver replaced it then tried remote again still nothing. At first my door did unlock but it was only front passenger side, so if i pushed the remote unlock fast twice it used to unlock. now it doesn't. so, another problem, when my lights are on turn off car the doors unlock, front passenger and driver side passenger unlock for some odd reason. So i dont know what to do any more. as well from the button on the driver side door unlocks others dont so i need 3 more new actuators.
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need advice on 02 VW Jetta

December 15, 2016, 10:38 am
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I want to put a remote start in my daughters 02 Jetta. I have called several installers and they all say they don't do Volkswagon. or they want like 600-800. So been doing some home work on doing it my self .Yes I do have some experience . Auto mechanic for last 40 years. but admittedly not a professional alarm installer . Im thinking of using a viper 3305V with a 556UW bypass. from what I've heard the antenna on the by pass doesn't work well with vw`s. some people say to cut the antenna and hard wire it into the existing immobilizer . any one agree with this ? also has any one had experience with VW`s and could advise me if this is something I should tackle and how they would recommend doing it ?
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Remote Start Issue

January 19, 2017, 8:11 am
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Hi all, we recently had a remote start installed in our MB, uses the idatastart BZ1 module. At least twice a week it loses sync, and you have start the car with the key and let it run 15 sec and shut off to re-sync. Anyone have this issue, or even better an explanation and/or solution? Thanks! :thumb:
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mitsubishi gallant 2003: installed my new radio now problem ? need help ..

January 23, 2017, 10:18 am
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i finished installing my new radio , bass and amp in my mitsubishi gallant 2003 2.4l and evrything worked at first but then when i put evrything back together i pushed in the radio to finish up and now my dashboard light are gone my speedometer is gone and my two way flasher went off alone once but evrything else works for now just fine would anybody know what my problem might b i cheked the fuses there all good but cannot seem to find the problem need help anybody who already had this problem thanks in advance i am chekin the car out more today would be great to have opinions ?
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Viper 160xv

February 19, 2017, 6:32 pm
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I just bought a car 2006 subaru tribeca and discovered a module and a valet toggle switch under the dash. I have no remotes for this. I also found a bypass under the middle console where the stereo is.
I just bought a replacement remote(haven't received it yet) but I dont know where to start when I get it. Could anyone tell me where to start? Also would it just be better to get an upgraded smart start remote start. ? Thank you in advance.
without any
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Stereo and gps for a boat wont hold power

February 20, 2017, 5:43 am
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Hi everyone

I removed all my negatives to my bus bar as it was getting old and needed a clean, i have a fusion ms-ip600 stereo and a furano gp-1650wf sounder/chart plotter.

the 2 power cables for the steroe had been connected to the power cable of the sounder, the power lead connecting the stereo and sounder was taped up and not connected.

The negatives from the sounder and stereo were connected to the negative bus bar.

both the sounder and stereo worked, with only the negatives connected, both units are capable of holding memory without battery connection.

Always at start up, the sounder would alarm that internal battery is low and has faied start up test, cancelling the alarm the sounder worked fine, the stereo worked fine too.

i have connected the positives direct to the battery and the negatives direct to the battery and both the stereo and sounder display similar problems.

Using a test light as a lead for the ground terminal and a cable for the positive on the stereo the following happens:
Initial cnnection has the test light at about half wattage, then it goes out after approx 10-15 seconds. When i hit the power on switch for the stereo the lights of the stereo come on for a split second then no pwer, doing this will make the test light repower to half wattage before going out again in the 10-15 second time frame.

The sounder when connected does not light the test light used as a cable, but when i press the on switch of the sounder it will light up for a ssplit second and then nothing, if i attempt to hold the power button on the test light will flicker

I have no idea how these electronics were working with only the negatives connected to the bus bar before, and now that i am trying to wire them correctly the above happens.

Could it be capacitors inside both?
Could they have been running off the internal batteries which were getting a very small charge from the negative connection?

Do they sound like they are cooked showing those symptoms.

I had an auto elec who looked at it initially and he said if they are working dont touch them, he also wired my spot light to my stern light and screwed up a few other things so im not keen on asking him again.

does anyone have any clues or tests i can try? both units have inline fuses and both are intact.
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Compustar vs Encore Remote Starter

February 21, 2017, 3:05 pm
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I have been looking at some after market remote starters for my 2016 Honda CR-V. I was told that Compustar is the industry's best. However, I also came across a brand called Encore which is offering a lot more features than the Compustar for the same price. The remote installation dealership told me that Encore is also a good brand but Compustar is the best.

Anyone has any experience with Encore remote starters ?
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