I HAVE AN OLD BUT, NEW LA-Z-START UNIT FROM 2000. I AM LOOKING FOR THE INSTALLATION SHEET, ANY HELP OUT THERE?
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LA-Z-START REMOTE AUTO STARTER
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viper 5901 killed my car
I bought a 03 grand prix gt about a year ago, it has a viper 5901 alarm on it. I haven't had issues until about a month ago. The alarm started randomly not working, then the remote start became random, then about a week ago I started the car and it turned over for a second, then everything went dead. When I tried again, it started. It ran fine until this mourning, it did the same thing it did a week ago, but now it will not start, seems that everything is dead.
If anyone has an idea, I would be grateful.
I don't like nthe alarm system, if I can remove it easily, that would be best
If anyone has an idea, I would be grateful.
I don't like nthe alarm system, if I can remove it easily, that would be best
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Want to change radio
Hello, I would like to change my car radui because Id really like to have USB on the radio and my current doesnt have it.
Right now I have this one: LG LAC3900RN Support: Find Manuals & Warranty Info | LG Tunisia
And I am looking to buy this one: Car Audio Stereo Radio Player MP3/USB/SD/FM AUX-IN For iPhone 5 5s 6 IPod iPad | eBay
Now my question is, as you can see I do not have same connector type on the radio, the one I am looking to buy has an euro connector, mine has different one. Also I am not sure about the size of the radio itself will fit in my car, anyone who knows about this please help :)
Thanks.
Right now I have this one: LG LAC3900RN Support: Find Manuals & Warranty Info | LG Tunisia
And I am looking to buy this one: Car Audio Stereo Radio Player MP3/USB/SD/FM AUX-IN For iPhone 5 5s 6 IPod iPad | eBay
Now my question is, as you can see I do not have same connector type on the radio, the one I am looking to buy has an euro connector, mine has different one. Also I am not sure about the size of the radio itself will fit in my car, anyone who knows about this please help :)
Thanks.
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Have a 2000 GT mustang, Radio is getting Outdated
The radio's clock finally died out on me, Radio still works but the LED screen does not, What would be a really good and worthwhile replacement for it?
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Compustar CS800-s remote starter installation problem
Hello
I am very sorry for the long Post. i am trying to give you the full Info. on my installation.
I am trying to install new remote starter in Honda CRV 2003 automatic.
Compustar CS800-s model, 1 way remote starter.
Honda CRV wiring, compustar cs800-s wiring and error code pictures are attached.
I installed wires according to the installation menu and programmed it. lock and unlock is functioning fine.
but whenever i try to start car from the remote, i am getting this error code: Ignition is at ON position, without even having the key inside the ignition cylinder and it does not let me start the car from the remote.
also the break light always stays on. even if i unplug the remote starter by removing all the plugs from the starter unit. i also disconnected the break wire, but still rear break lights stays ON. I have to disconnect the battery in order to get these lights off.
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How i installed it:
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Compustar CS800-s Wiring diagram
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CN 1. Main Harness
Pin. 1 and 3: I joined both Red + 12v constant and red/white +12v constant and attached it to CRvs 12v constant (white wire).
Pin 2. Green/white + parking output, connected with CRvs parking lights + (red/black @ drivers kick panel harness)
Pin 4. White + accessory wire, attached to CRVs accessory wire (black/red)
Pin 5. Blue + (selectable by jumper). I did not attach. Because in previous remote starter that I removed from this crv, 2nd accessory wire was not used. Previous remote starter did not have this wire option. And my car was working fine without it so this time even though compustar have this wire, I did not attach it. I am not sure if this makes any difference or not.
Pin 6. Yellow + 12v starter, attached to CRVs starter wire (black/white)
Pin 7. Green + 12v ignition, attached to CRVs ignition wire (black/yellow)
Pin 8. Black ground wire, attached it to CRVs chassis
CN 2. 12 pin harness
Pin 1. Green/white (-) parking light output. Did not attach this wire to CRVs Blue (-)parking light wire. Because I read on this forum that if + parking wire is available use that and do not use this one. Or else you have to use relay. the previous remote starter had 2 white wires and did not have +parking light wire and this wire was used along with black wire from the CRVs green harness.
Both blue and black CRV wires were cut from the harness and:
One white wire was connected to CRVs blue wire (-parking light wire) from the green harness, 2nd white wire was connected to CRVs black wire from the green harness.
This is the description from the previous remote starter manual:
WHITE Wires: Parking Light Flasher
These wires are the COMMON and NORMALLY OPEN contacts of the on-board parking lamp relay.
If the vehicle's parking lights are a +12 volt switched system, connect (1) of the White wires to a fused (15A max.) +12
volt battery source, and connect the second White wire to the vehicle's parking light wire.
If the vehicle's parking lights are a chassis ground switched system, connect (1) of the White wires to a chassis ground
source, and connect the second White wire to the vehicle's parking light wire.
Note: I did not attach these 2 blue and black CRV wires back to the green harness. These wires are just hanging in the CRV wire bundle for green harness. I just removed those white wires. I dont know if I should attach these 2 wires back to the harness.
Pin 2. Did not use
Pin 3. Did not use
Pin 4. Did not use
Pin 5. Did not use
Pin 6. Did not use
Pin 7. White (-)horn output. Attached to CRVs (-) horn trigger Orange wire @ steering column harness
Pin 8. Attached to hood pin
Pin 9. Light blue/white + foot break input, attached it to CRvs break wire +white/black.
Pin 10. Did not use
Pin 11. Did not use
Pin 12. Yellow/black + tach/alt sense input, attached it to CRVs Blue tachometer wire next to battery.
CN 3: six pin harness
Pin 1. Did not use
Pin 2. Did not use
Pin 3. Did not use
Pin 4. Blue (-) unlock, connected to CRVs power door unlock (-) white/green @ grey harness.
Pin 5. Blue/black (-) lock, connected to CRVs power door lock (-) white/blue @ grey harness
Pin 6. Did not use
CN 4. 4 pin antenna harness
Attached to antenna.
Please i need your help
Please let me know what i am doing wrong and how can i correct it.
Thank you
I am very sorry for the long Post. i am trying to give you the full Info. on my installation.
I am trying to install new remote starter in Honda CRV 2003 automatic.
Compustar CS800-s model, 1 way remote starter.
Honda CRV wiring, compustar cs800-s wiring and error code pictures are attached.
I installed wires according to the installation menu and programmed it. lock and unlock is functioning fine.
but whenever i try to start car from the remote, i am getting this error code: Ignition is at ON position, without even having the key inside the ignition cylinder and it does not let me start the car from the remote.
also the break light always stays on. even if i unplug the remote starter by removing all the plugs from the starter unit. i also disconnected the break wire, but still rear break lights stays ON. I have to disconnect the battery in order to get these lights off.
How i installed it:
Compustar CS800-s Wiring diagram
CN 1. Main Harness
Pin. 1 and 3: I joined both Red + 12v constant and red/white +12v constant and attached it to CRvs 12v constant (white wire).
Pin 2. Green/white + parking output, connected with CRvs parking lights + (red/black @ drivers kick panel harness)
Pin 4. White + accessory wire, attached to CRVs accessory wire (black/red)
Pin 5. Blue + (selectable by jumper). I did not attach. Because in previous remote starter that I removed from this crv, 2nd accessory wire was not used. Previous remote starter did not have this wire option. And my car was working fine without it so this time even though compustar have this wire, I did not attach it. I am not sure if this makes any difference or not.
Pin 6. Yellow + 12v starter, attached to CRVs starter wire (black/white)
Pin 7. Green + 12v ignition, attached to CRVs ignition wire (black/yellow)
Pin 8. Black ground wire, attached it to CRVs chassis
CN 2. 12 pin harness
Pin 1. Green/white (-) parking light output. Did not attach this wire to CRVs Blue (-)parking light wire. Because I read on this forum that if + parking wire is available use that and do not use this one. Or else you have to use relay. the previous remote starter had 2 white wires and did not have +parking light wire and this wire was used along with black wire from the CRVs green harness.
Both blue and black CRV wires were cut from the harness and:
One white wire was connected to CRVs blue wire (-parking light wire) from the green harness, 2nd white wire was connected to CRVs black wire from the green harness.
This is the description from the previous remote starter manual:
WHITE Wires: Parking Light Flasher
These wires are the COMMON and NORMALLY OPEN contacts of the on-board parking lamp relay.
If the vehicle's parking lights are a +12 volt switched system, connect (1) of the White wires to a fused (15A max.) +12
volt battery source, and connect the second White wire to the vehicle's parking light wire.
If the vehicle's parking lights are a chassis ground switched system, connect (1) of the White wires to a chassis ground
source, and connect the second White wire to the vehicle's parking light wire.
Note: I did not attach these 2 blue and black CRV wires back to the green harness. These wires are just hanging in the CRV wire bundle for green harness. I just removed those white wires. I dont know if I should attach these 2 wires back to the harness.
Pin 2. Did not use
Pin 3. Did not use
Pin 4. Did not use
Pin 5. Did not use
Pin 6. Did not use
Pin 7. White (-)horn output. Attached to CRVs (-) horn trigger Orange wire @ steering column harness
Pin 8. Attached to hood pin
Pin 9. Light blue/white + foot break input, attached it to CRvs break wire +white/black.
Pin 10. Did not use
Pin 11. Did not use
Pin 12. Yellow/black + tach/alt sense input, attached it to CRVs Blue tachometer wire next to battery.
CN 3: six pin harness
Pin 1. Did not use
Pin 2. Did not use
Pin 3. Did not use
Pin 4. Blue (-) unlock, connected to CRVs power door unlock (-) white/green @ grey harness.
Pin 5. Blue/black (-) lock, connected to CRVs power door lock (-) white/blue @ grey harness
Pin 6. Did not use
CN 4. 4 pin antenna harness
Attached to antenna.
Please i need your help
Please let me know what i am doing wrong and how can i correct it.
Thank you
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How to disarm alarm without key FOB
So a couple months ago my wife and I went up on the mountain and lost my key FOB since like most viper alarms the FOB was cheap and the piece to hold it to key ring broke.
Anyway, because I don't have the key fob I can't disarm the alarm. Unlocking the car with the key sets it off, putting the key in the ignition sets it off, looking at it funny sets it off. So I decided to cut the wires to the siren.
I've tried all of the combinations for the valet switch that the manual gives and none of them work. Plus the alarm is ancient and I don't know what the previous owner choose. Luckily it's only seven options so it didn't take long to rule all of them out. I've done this several times just to make sure it wasn't user error.
After the valet switch failed to help out I tried removing the terminals from the battery, it did nothing. Next I tried removing the brain from the car, it also did nothing. Finally I removed the brain AND the battery terminals from the car for two weeks, hoping that it might have some backup power that might fully drain. That did nothing as well.
Any ideas of how to force a disarm?
Anyway, because I don't have the key fob I can't disarm the alarm. Unlocking the car with the key sets it off, putting the key in the ignition sets it off, looking at it funny sets it off. So I decided to cut the wires to the siren.
I've tried all of the combinations for the valet switch that the manual gives and none of them work. Plus the alarm is ancient and I don't know what the previous owner choose. Luckily it's only seven options so it didn't take long to rule all of them out. I've done this several times just to make sure it wasn't user error.
After the valet switch failed to help out I tried removing the terminals from the battery, it did nothing. Next I tried removing the brain from the car, it also did nothing. Finally I removed the brain AND the battery terminals from the car for two weeks, hoping that it might have some backup power that might fully drain. That did nothing as well.
Any ideas of how to force a disarm?
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Viper 5906v question
I had the 5906v installed yesterday and was wondering if there is any way to use the viper remotes to lock and unlock my truck while it is running or does turning the ignition on disable the remotes
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Remote Starter for 2008 Infiniti G35x Pushbutton
I am planning to install a remote starter for my 2008 Infiniti G35x (pushbutton). I'd like to use a T-harness to simplify installation. I've noticed a few different options, and I am a little overwhelmed. It looks like the starters from Fortin, Omegalink, and Compustar/Idatalink are similar. It does appear that the Fortin version is a bit cheaper, but I'm not overly concerned with price. My understanding is that I would still need to purchase an RF kit and possibly a flash module. Can anyone give me some suggestions? Is one better than the other? Is there any difference with installation? Are there any other options that I should consider? I just need basic remote start functionality. I appreciate any input!
Here's a link to the items I referenced in my post:
Fortin EVO-NIST1
Omegalink OL-RS-NI5
Compustar FT-NI5-DC
Here's a link to the items I referenced in my post:
Fortin EVO-NIST1
Omegalink OL-RS-NI5
Compustar FT-NI5-DC
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Atrostart 2106 has bad range
TL;DR - Astrostart 2106 has poor range. Checked everything I can check. Symptoms are random and location based. Remote seems to be working fine. Dealer wants outrageous amount for 10yo new remote. Looking for options.
2002 Chevy Tahoe
Astrostart 2106 5-button No alarm
I purchased the vehicle with RS already installed. Ever since I bought the vehicle I've always thought the RS has had poor range. The car I had before the Tahoe had the 2205 installed and that RS was amazing!
Correct me if I'm wrong but wasn't the 2106 rated for like 1000ft or 2000ft? Sometimes I can stand right next to my truck and not have it functioning at all but after 8 tries of unlocking doors, then all the sudden it works. Specifically there's a spot (Target parking lot) in a neighboring city where it just won't work at all, period. And by my work it randomly works just fine or not at all.
I'll start by saying that this isn't a button issue on the remote. I've taken apart and cleaned contact multiple times. The remote seems to be functioning just fine. And what I mean by that is the light blinks every time I'm using it. But I don't know if there's something else going on in the remote that I can't visibly see. I've also had the same symptoms right after replacing the batteries.
So far I've checked the following: Checked antenna connectors at windshield and brain box, checked antenna wire from window to brain box, antenna wire is away from all other wires. I've cleaned the antenna contacts on windshield. Everything checks out as OK in my book. No loose wires at connectors, no pinching or cuts.
I've attempted to reprogram the remote by using the dip switch 8 method. Seemed to take but not sure if it really re-programmed it or not. Same symptoms after doing that either way.
I'm at wits end with this thing!
Theories:
- Something in the remote is wore out. The antenna, a little relay, a capacitor, a "something something". The light still works fine but after that, something isn't functioning the way it should.
- The antenna is somehow messed up. This has the antenna that has the pinstripe sticker stuck the windshield and then you velcro the plastic part to that with those chincy foam connectors.
- There's a bug happening in the brain box. Is there a way to reset to defaults or something?
- This "older" style of RS is using some radio channel that is now flooded with other random signals like cell phones, wifi, power. Something that is causing major interference.
Does anyone know what is going on?
I don't want to just start buying new antennas and remotes just to try it out. Especially because there's a dealer by me that is still wanting $60!! for a new 5-button remote. Ridiculous if you ask me for a RS that's like 10 years old. I've searched online and can only find used remotes, which I wouldn't have any confidence in.
Is it the remote, the brain, antenna? Any ideas? I feel like it could be something really simple.
Thanks for any time related to this. Of course I'm in a situation where I can't just install a new RS or frankly spend any money on this. The wife doesn't see this as a priority by any means. Really just looking to see what my DIY options are or if I ultimately just need to save up for a new one somehow.
I was kind of wondering if it would somehow be possible to program a different brand or type of remote to this brain box. I would imagine there are limited channels that these remotes are working on, right? I mean, could I program a newer RS-613 or RS-614XR to this brain box?
Sry long post.
2002 Chevy Tahoe
Astrostart 2106 5-button No alarm
I purchased the vehicle with RS already installed. Ever since I bought the vehicle I've always thought the RS has had poor range. The car I had before the Tahoe had the 2205 installed and that RS was amazing!
Correct me if I'm wrong but wasn't the 2106 rated for like 1000ft or 2000ft? Sometimes I can stand right next to my truck and not have it functioning at all but after 8 tries of unlocking doors, then all the sudden it works. Specifically there's a spot (Target parking lot) in a neighboring city where it just won't work at all, period. And by my work it randomly works just fine or not at all.
I'll start by saying that this isn't a button issue on the remote. I've taken apart and cleaned contact multiple times. The remote seems to be functioning just fine. And what I mean by that is the light blinks every time I'm using it. But I don't know if there's something else going on in the remote that I can't visibly see. I've also had the same symptoms right after replacing the batteries.
So far I've checked the following: Checked antenna connectors at windshield and brain box, checked antenna wire from window to brain box, antenna wire is away from all other wires. I've cleaned the antenna contacts on windshield. Everything checks out as OK in my book. No loose wires at connectors, no pinching or cuts.
I've attempted to reprogram the remote by using the dip switch 8 method. Seemed to take but not sure if it really re-programmed it or not. Same symptoms after doing that either way.
I'm at wits end with this thing!
Theories:
- Something in the remote is wore out. The antenna, a little relay, a capacitor, a "something something". The light still works fine but after that, something isn't functioning the way it should.
- The antenna is somehow messed up. This has the antenna that has the pinstripe sticker stuck the windshield and then you velcro the plastic part to that with those chincy foam connectors.
- There's a bug happening in the brain box. Is there a way to reset to defaults or something?
- This "older" style of RS is using some radio channel that is now flooded with other random signals like cell phones, wifi, power. Something that is causing major interference.
Does anyone know what is going on?
I don't want to just start buying new antennas and remotes just to try it out. Especially because there's a dealer by me that is still wanting $60!! for a new 5-button remote. Ridiculous if you ask me for a RS that's like 10 years old. I've searched online and can only find used remotes, which I wouldn't have any confidence in.
Is it the remote, the brain, antenna? Any ideas? I feel like it could be something really simple.
Thanks for any time related to this. Of course I'm in a situation where I can't just install a new RS or frankly spend any money on this. The wife doesn't see this as a priority by any means. Really just looking to see what my DIY options are or if I ultimately just need to save up for a new one somehow.
I was kind of wondering if it would somehow be possible to program a different brand or type of remote to this brain box. I would imagine there are limited channels that these remotes are working on, right? I mean, could I program a newer RS-613 or RS-614XR to this brain box?
Sry long post.
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Central Door Lock DS18 Intallation needed
I have a Scytek A20 Alarm System and trying to add door locks to my 97 Nissan Truck. I am trying to install the RC_CLS2 central door locks (From Amazon.com).
I am a newbie, So lets start from the beginning.
RC-CLS2 Wires:
Red +12V power = ??
Black Ground = ??
Brown (Manual Switch Trigger) = ??
White (Manual Switch Trigger) = ??
Here my problem which wires to use:
Scytek A20
Green = lock Output (-) 500mA
Blue = Unlock Output (-) 500mA
OR
Blue/White (-)500mA Passenger Unlock Out (-)
Violet (+) Door Trigger Input, Zone 4
Green (-) Door Trigger Input, Zone 4
I am a newbie, So lets start from the beginning.
RC-CLS2 Wires:
Red +12V power = ??
Black Ground = ??
Brown (Manual Switch Trigger) = ??
White (Manual Switch Trigger) = ??
Here my problem which wires to use:
Scytek A20
Green = lock Output (-) 500mA
Blue = Unlock Output (-) 500mA
OR
Blue/White (-)500mA Passenger Unlock Out (-)
Violet (+) Door Trigger Input, Zone 4
Green (-) Door Trigger Input, Zone 4
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Best STOCK car speakers?
Hello, This is going to be meant for a HOME system. But, hear me through and you'll see why I'm posting it here. I have an older kenwood amp. One I use now is kinda newer. My other one is from 1985. 50W But, I have 200W subs that it has enough power to blow. I tune my equalizer through winamp to be crystal clear and packed full of bass. Now, with how EASILY my speakers blow it's been a challenge finding something cheap that'll handle what I throw at it. Home speakers are always very expensive. I make VERY little and wanna do this cheap. So, what I've been thinking is going to a junkyard and picking up some speakers from a car. I know to push the cone, even pressure all the way around and if I hear the voice coil scratching it's a bad speaker. I've been into audio for years, although I'm sure there's still lots to learn. I especially had this idea after hearing Ghost- Cirice in my girlfriends car. ( I set the eq myself :D) But, I know there's gotta be better speakers than that from a 2004 Buick Rondezvous and they're not that common in junkards. Surprise, a GM that isn't common. So, I was thinking maybe taking speakers from Lexus, Mercedes, Jaguar, basically anything a rich person would own. Because why not go luxury when my local junkyard will only charge $8.00 per speaker? So, what do you guys think would be best? The higher the wattage the better. I'm probably gonna build the boxes myself, and I might upgrade to a louder amp in a few years as well. But, a 50W amp that has the capability of blowing 200W subs, I want a high wattage.
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Python Responder One stopped working after 5+ years
Hello, Thanks in advance for any help.. I'm completely at a loss on how to proceed.
I drive a 2010 Acura RDX that had a dealer installed Python 4203P system installed. That has the Responder One remote start and a bypass module (FlashLogic FLDL1 Universal data doorlock interface and immobilizer bypass module). It worked great for 5 years then stopped working.
The pressing the remote start button has absolutely zero effect on the car. The door lock button on the driver side door stopped working at the same time. It too is dead to the touch. The passenger side door works fine.
Soon thereafter my car battery died a few times over. Jump start fixed it for a day or two but the battery would slowly die. The alternator was fine and the battery would charge to proper voltage. After some research I found a parasitic battery drain of 400-600 milliamps. So I began to pull fuses until #23 in the main fuse box under the hood killed that draw to nearly zero. Pulling that fuse kills nearly every bit of electronics in the car (radio, gps, power locks, etc) but it was drivable again.
I don't know a ton about cars, but I ordered a pdf of my car's service manual and I took the door panel off and determined the driver door lock button and actuator is all working fine and sending the right signals.
I then replaced my troubled fuse and turned my attention to the remote start. I removed the bypass module, battery drain was still there. I removed the Responder One module and the drain disappeared and my door lock button started working normally again.
I replaced the starter and the bypass module and I have the same problems again. I did a factory reset and reprogramming of the bypass module... no change. This module seemed to be working correctly, the LED flashes were exactly as described by the manual I found online.
I tried a factory reset settings on the Responder One but I get zero response when using the programming push button. The status LED never lights up at all no matter what I do.
I ordered a brand new Python 4203P system and just plugged it into my existing wiring.... no fix, same problems. The door lock button becomes disabled when I plug in both the "primary harness 9-pin" and "4-pin satellite harness". The status LED never lights at all.
My system doesn't even seem to use the "door lock harness 3-pin connector" at all. Maybe I could have done a better job keeping track of everything as I originally unplugged it, but I've looked everywhere and there is no 3 pin connector anywhere and everything is responding the same as it ever was. I figure the original installer somehow used the accessory wires in the 4 pin satellite harness to connect to the door locking system ??? Everything is wrapped in tons of electrical tape and I'm not confident enough to begin untangling that mess.
About my battery drain... my guess is my starter drawing battery power overnight trying sending a constant signal to the door locks? Or maybe the starter was preventing my car's computers from shutting down into a low power mode?
So that's where I'm at today. I'm hoping for any pointers here before I take it in to be looked at. I enjoy a little DIY work, but this is getting frustrating.
Thanks.
I drive a 2010 Acura RDX that had a dealer installed Python 4203P system installed. That has the Responder One remote start and a bypass module (FlashLogic FLDL1 Universal data doorlock interface and immobilizer bypass module). It worked great for 5 years then stopped working.
The pressing the remote start button has absolutely zero effect on the car. The door lock button on the driver side door stopped working at the same time. It too is dead to the touch. The passenger side door works fine.
Soon thereafter my car battery died a few times over. Jump start fixed it for a day or two but the battery would slowly die. The alternator was fine and the battery would charge to proper voltage. After some research I found a parasitic battery drain of 400-600 milliamps. So I began to pull fuses until #23 in the main fuse box under the hood killed that draw to nearly zero. Pulling that fuse kills nearly every bit of electronics in the car (radio, gps, power locks, etc) but it was drivable again.
I don't know a ton about cars, but I ordered a pdf of my car's service manual and I took the door panel off and determined the driver door lock button and actuator is all working fine and sending the right signals.
I then replaced my troubled fuse and turned my attention to the remote start. I removed the bypass module, battery drain was still there. I removed the Responder One module and the drain disappeared and my door lock button started working normally again.
I replaced the starter and the bypass module and I have the same problems again. I did a factory reset and reprogramming of the bypass module... no change. This module seemed to be working correctly, the LED flashes were exactly as described by the manual I found online.
I tried a factory reset settings on the Responder One but I get zero response when using the programming push button. The status LED never lights up at all no matter what I do.
I ordered a brand new Python 4203P system and just plugged it into my existing wiring.... no fix, same problems. The door lock button becomes disabled when I plug in both the "primary harness 9-pin" and "4-pin satellite harness". The status LED never lights at all.
My system doesn't even seem to use the "door lock harness 3-pin connector" at all. Maybe I could have done a better job keeping track of everything as I originally unplugged it, but I've looked everywhere and there is no 3 pin connector anywhere and everything is responding the same as it ever was. I figure the original installer somehow used the accessory wires in the 4 pin satellite harness to connect to the door locking system ??? Everything is wrapped in tons of electrical tape and I'm not confident enough to begin untangling that mess.
About my battery drain... my guess is my starter drawing battery power overnight trying sending a constant signal to the door locks? Or maybe the starter was preventing my car's computers from shutting down into a low power mode?
So that's where I'm at today. I'm hoping for any pointers here before I take it in to be looked at. I enjoy a little DIY work, but this is getting frustrating.
Thanks.
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Viper 5601 Installation help needed..
Hi Guys..
I need help to install Viper 5601 Security and remote start on Toyota sienna 2008.
("??" indicates "Where the heck does this go?!")
VIPER Primary H1, 12-pin harness --> CAR WIRE
1. RED/WHITE (-) 200mA trunk release output --> DO NOT USE
2. RED (+)12v constant input --> White/Red +12v constant
3. BROWN (+)siren output --> Siren wire that will be placed under the hood
4. WHITE/BROWN light flash isolation wire - PIN 87a of onboard relay --> ??
5. BLACK (-) chassis ground --> BROWN ground wire
6. VIOLET (+) door trigger input --> DO NOT USE
7. BLUE (-) trunk pin / instant trigger input --> ??
8. GREEN (-) door trigger input --> ??
9. BLACK/WHITE (-)200mA dome light output --> ??
10. WHITE/BLUE (-) remote start / turbo timer --> DO NOT USE
11. WHITE parking light output --> Green/Black
12. ORANGE (-)500mA ground when armed --> ??
Viper Door lock harness, 3-pin connector --> Car Wire
1. BLUE unlock output --> Blue
2. EMPTY
3. GREEN lock output --> Light Green
Viper remote start harness, 10-pin connector --> Car Wire
1. PINK(+) ignition 1 input/output --> ??
2. RED/WHITE(+) fused (30a) ignition 2 / flex relay input 87 --> ??
3.ORANGE(+) accessory output --> PURPLE
4. VIOLET(+) starter output (car side of starter kill) --> ??
5. GREEN(+) starter input (key side of starter kill) --> ??
6.RED(+) fused (30a) ignition 1 input --> ??
7.PINK/WHITE(+) Ignition 2/ flex relay output --> ??
8. PINK/BLACK(+) flex relay input 87a keyside (if required) of Flex relay --> ??
9. RED/BLACK(+) fused (30a) accessory/starter input --> ??
10. NC --> No Connection DO NOT USE
H2 Harness 18-Pin Connector
1. Light Green/Black 200mA oem alarm disarm output -->??
2. 200mA aux 4 output
3. 200mA oem alarm arm output
4. 200mA aux 2 output
5. 200mA aux 3 output
6. 200mA aux 1 output
7. diesel wait to start input
8. Brown/Black 200mA horn honk output-->??
9. Violet/White tachometer input --??
10. Dark Blue 200mA status output -->??
11. Pink/White 200mA flex relay control output -->??
12. Orange 200mA accessory output -->??
13. Purple 200mA starter output -->??
14. Pink 200mA ignition 1 output -->??
15. Grey hood pin input -->??
16.Blue/White 200mA 2nd status/ rear defogger output -->??
17. Brown brake shutdown input --> ??
18. Black/White neutral safety input -->??
Any help will be appreciate. Thanks
I need help to install Viper 5601 Security and remote start on Toyota sienna 2008.
("??" indicates "Where the heck does this go?!")
VIPER Primary H1, 12-pin harness --> CAR WIRE
1. RED/WHITE (-) 200mA trunk release output --> DO NOT USE
2. RED (+)12v constant input --> White/Red +12v constant
3. BROWN (+)siren output --> Siren wire that will be placed under the hood
4. WHITE/BROWN light flash isolation wire - PIN 87a of onboard relay --> ??
5. BLACK (-) chassis ground --> BROWN ground wire
6. VIOLET (+) door trigger input --> DO NOT USE
7. BLUE (-) trunk pin / instant trigger input --> ??
8. GREEN (-) door trigger input --> ??
9. BLACK/WHITE (-)200mA dome light output --> ??
10. WHITE/BLUE (-) remote start / turbo timer --> DO NOT USE
11. WHITE parking light output --> Green/Black
12. ORANGE (-)500mA ground when armed --> ??
Viper Door lock harness, 3-pin connector --> Car Wire
1. BLUE unlock output --> Blue
2. EMPTY
3. GREEN lock output --> Light Green
Viper remote start harness, 10-pin connector --> Car Wire
1. PINK(+) ignition 1 input/output --> ??
2. RED/WHITE(+) fused (30a) ignition 2 / flex relay input 87 --> ??
3.ORANGE(+) accessory output --> PURPLE
4. VIOLET(+) starter output (car side of starter kill) --> ??
5. GREEN(+) starter input (key side of starter kill) --> ??
6.RED(+) fused (30a) ignition 1 input --> ??
7.PINK/WHITE(+) Ignition 2/ flex relay output --> ??
8. PINK/BLACK(+) flex relay input 87a keyside (if required) of Flex relay --> ??
9. RED/BLACK(+) fused (30a) accessory/starter input --> ??
10. NC --> No Connection DO NOT USE
H2 Harness 18-Pin Connector
1. Light Green/Black 200mA oem alarm disarm output -->??
2. 200mA aux 4 output
3. 200mA oem alarm arm output
4. 200mA aux 2 output
5. 200mA aux 3 output
6. 200mA aux 1 output
7. diesel wait to start input
8. Brown/Black 200mA horn honk output-->??
9. Violet/White tachometer input --??
10. Dark Blue 200mA status output -->??
11. Pink/White 200mA flex relay control output -->??
12. Orange 200mA accessory output -->??
13. Purple 200mA starter output -->??
14. Pink 200mA ignition 1 output -->??
15. Grey hood pin input -->??
16.Blue/White 200mA 2nd status/ rear defogger output -->??
17. Brown brake shutdown input --> ??
18. Black/White neutral safety input -->??
Any help will be appreciate. Thanks
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Viper starter tries to work but car won't turn over
I have a 2012 VW Tiguan with a viper 4115v starter. I push remote once, car tries to start but won't turn over. It retries after abt a minute and still doesn't work. The engine light is on when I get into car. Any suggestions for what is wrong?
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Viper 3105v Random mutlitple beeps
Hey, I have a Viper 3105 installed on my 2005 F350 and it will just randomly beep. Like 8 beeps in a row. The LED indicator doesn't flash anything and when I disarm its does it normal beeps. What could be causing this? Seem to be doing it daily.
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Crime stopper rs4-g5
I have the crimestopper cool start rs4-g5 installed in my truck.
Everything has worked just fine for quite some time, but today the door locks stopped working.
I know this:
-The power door locks work fine with the key and by using the factory switch
-The remote is programmed, has a good battery and the remote start function works properly
-When you push the lock or unlock button on the remote it does not lock or unlock the doors as it should.
-When you push the lock or unlock button on the remote I can hear the relays working and you can actually see the locks twitch like they are trying to move, but they don't
-There is no issue with the factory linkage or wiring
Any info would help considerably. I just don't have any experience with car security systems.
Thank you
Everything has worked just fine for quite some time, but today the door locks stopped working.
I know this:
-The power door locks work fine with the key and by using the factory switch
-The remote is programmed, has a good battery and the remote start function works properly
-When you push the lock or unlock button on the remote it does not lock or unlock the doors as it should.
-When you push the lock or unlock button on the remote I can hear the relays working and you can actually see the locks twitch like they are trying to move, but they don't
-There is no issue with the factory linkage or wiring
Any info would help considerably. I just don't have any experience with car security systems.
Thank you
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Problems
I have a autotek m 4000.1 and two dvc 4 ohm Q-power qpf15. They cut out every time I turn up the volume
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Tech Throwback
Just recently bought a 2004 Honda Spike while in Japan. The technology package has a port for a cell phone with a cable but I can't find any of the particulars. Take a look, maybe you can tell me what this thing is.
http://www.techsupportforum.com/foru...p;d=1460901356
http://www.techsupportforum.com/foru...p;d=1460901379
http://www.techsupportforum.com/foru...p;d=1460901356
http://www.techsupportforum.com/foru...p;d=1460901379
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Viper 5806V - Multiple issues
If you can help me, it would be greatly appreciated:
Anyway, here are my issues. First, if I try and open the hatch of my 2016 Subaru Outback with hatch button and factory smartkey then the alarm goes nuts. If I unlock it from any of the doors, it's fine. But unlocking it from the hatch via the factory remote, or the door button sets off the alarm. It kinda defeats the whole purpose of having a proximity key.
Also, I would like to disable the little horn honk when the remote start time runs out so it doesn't bother my neighbors.
I would also like to find out if it is possible to hook my defroster and heated seats up to the builtin functions of the remote start.
Like I said, any help any of you can give me on this would be greatly appreciated. Anyway, thanks again.
Anyway, here are my issues. First, if I try and open the hatch of my 2016 Subaru Outback with hatch button and factory smartkey then the alarm goes nuts. If I unlock it from any of the doors, it's fine. But unlocking it from the hatch via the factory remote, or the door button sets off the alarm. It kinda defeats the whole purpose of having a proximity key.
Also, I would like to disable the little horn honk when the remote start time runs out so it doesn't bother my neighbors.
I would also like to find out if it is possible to hook my defroster and heated seats up to the builtin functions of the remote start.
Like I said, any help any of you can give me on this would be greatly appreciated. Anyway, thanks again.
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Viper 5101 remote pairing problem..
first post here
I recently purchase a vehicle from an individual that has a Viper Remote start 5101 installed. He informed me that he thinks his kids messed up the remotes pairing/programming. I am trying to re-pair the remotes with the system and I have followed all the guides, including the instruction manual from Viper, with no success. Does anyone know of any way i can completely reset the entire the system, so that maybe I can start from scratch.. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I recently purchase a vehicle from an individual that has a Viper Remote start 5101 installed. He informed me that he thinks his kids messed up the remotes pairing/programming. I am trying to re-pair the remotes with the system and I have followed all the guides, including the instruction manual from Viper, with no success. Does anyone know of any way i can completely reset the entire the system, so that maybe I can start from scratch.. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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